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L.A. is covered with flowers. Gasoline pink, mint crimson, moonlight white, deuterium violet. We drive past them, tuxedo next to evening gown, two elegant Saturday evening pupae in this rushing metal-and-glass cocoon, migrating by infrared night vision toward some disease fund-raiser or cinematic party where we will metamorphose and spread our wings, seeking the heat…

Turin’s plane lands in Bombay. The next morning, he gets up early and leaves on his pilgrimage to Mohamedali Road, famous for perfume, firecracker shops, and muglai food snack joints. He is looking for the rare and expensive perfume ingredient oudh. Perfume shops are everywhere. Peer into their dim interiors, and most look like old,…

Jean-Claude Ellena  | Hermès At the time Hermès began courting him to become its in-house perfumer, Ellena was just completing a perfume called L’Eau d’Hiver, the third (and, given his entry into Hermès, obligatorily the last) of a trilogy of perfumes he’d made for an exquisite, in fact all-but-revolutionary niche collection, Editions de Parfums run…